THIERRY MUGLER
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THIERRY MUGLER “Precursor”YOUTH IN STRASBOURGThierry MUGLER was born in Strasbourg, France. He was an undisciplined student who daydreamed in front of the towers of the Cathedral, dating from the Middle Age, and the statues in the museum. This inspired more than one draped gown and metal bustier. Nourished on horror films, Italian cinema and Hollywood musicals, he joined the Strasbourg Ballet at 14 and found himself moving in the world of his dreams : the stage, backstage, the lights ... and the dancers – sublime, made-up, costumed, lit. At the same time , he took courses at the School of Decorative Arts in Strasbourg were astonished by this picturesque figure. They stopped him on the street to ask where his clothes came from, or to insult him ! EARLY DAYS IN PARISHe soon got tired of Strasbourg. At 20, he left for Paris where on the terrace of the hip « Café de Flore », his clothes provoked applause. Thierry MUGLER had found his calling and thus began his adventure into fashion. Hired by GUDULE, the first trendy boutique in Paris, he designed a line and decorated windows. Two years later, he worked as a free-lance stylist for various large ready-to-wear Houses in Paris, Milan and London. His clothes were sold at the Créateurs Industriels, a boutique conceived by Andrée PUTMAN. THE BIRTH OF THE MUGLER STYLEIn 1973 he created his first line, « Café de Paris », and launched the sexy, black-clad woman inspired by dancers. The press was enthusiastic. In 1974 he established his own label and thus created the Thierry MUGLER company. Wishing to return to structured elegance after years of the « deconstructed look », he designed a strong silhouette with padded shoulders. From his days as a dancer, he retained a taste for the theatrical and for certain architecture. « Dance has taught me much about the maintenance and organisation of clothing, the importance of the shoulders, the way the head is held, the paying and rhythm of the legs ». In 1977 he presented his first « show-collection ». « We live in an age of searching, searching for new pleasures », he announced. Already his fashion was adventurous, provocative, opening new vistas. In 1978 surveys proclaimed him the « best designer in fashion ». He has recreated seduction », according to the editorials, « he is the most shocking of designers ...and the most disturbing by his apparent misogyny, when in fact, he is the most sensitive to femininity ». With his first spatial collections, then Amazonian, his « flower-children », his aristocratic Hollywood divas, he opened the area of the woman-star. He was the first to portray women fighting, conquering, victorious, strong, sensual and sexy. MEN’S FASHIONThe radiance of theses heroines is mirrored by the impeccable style of resolutely modern men. Clear-cut, precise and structured, the cut he creates for men offers a shouldered, slender, anatomical and classic silhouette. His city and casual lines for men include suits, shirts and accessories. Fine materials and tailored finishing produce a dynamic style with a marked waist and tapered pants. In 1985 the French Minister of Culture, Jack Lang, entered the history books by wearing his Mao suit to the French Parliament WITHOUT a TIE, thereby creating a memorable « scandal ». DIRECTORThierry MUGLER’s fashion is of course clothing – and a splash of fantasy: cut, sewn and overstitched. Thierry MUGLER considers himself a director. « Fashion doesn’t suffice. I try to pass-on a feeling, a sensation ... I always tell stories - about women. From the spy to the madonna, passing by the heroine, the goddess, the small Parisian, the secretary. I therefore create clothes that men and women will wear in these imaginary adventures. I produce and direct them ». A visionary and idealist, he hates preconceived ideas and ready-made formulas. Each season is marked with greater innovation than the previous, amazing the world even more with his vigour and audacity. « For me, clothing is a language: that of Life, with a constant rhythm ». Thierry MUGLER refuses to apply the precepts of classic style. He wants to reinvent it entirely. Over and above show and inaccessible presentations, season after season collections of perfectly cut and tailored clothes are born, the symbols of deluxe quality and refined details. His signed, labelled clothes can be identified at a glance by their style and structure. Suits, dresses, day and evening jackets which enhance women and closely fit and remodel their bodies THE ZENITH SHOWTo celebrate his fashion house’s tenth anniversary in 1984, Thierry MUGLER organised a « super-show » which was opened to the public. Over 6 000 spectators attended the Parisian « mass » in a production pushed to the extreme ... A parade under a liturgical, divine, mystic sign. Thierry MUGLER dared to admit laughingly, « My boundaries are beyond measure! » Magazines went one step beyond, declaring « the doors of Paradises are now wide open for him ». SHOWS AND STARSHis most recent fashion shows are shows and much more. They are creative events which will certainly go down in the annals of fashion history. Well-known stars of the music, fashion and film industries participate (Verushka, Lauren Hutton, the Kessler sisters, Deee Lite, Diana Ross, Ivana Trump, Patty Hearst, Tippi Hedren, Julie Newman, Sharon Stone and James Brown). Thierry MUGLER personally supervises all of the details of music, stage set, choreography and lights. With all the creative talent and vision within him, he « directs » seasonal shows with a cast of characters unlike any other : vampirellas and Lido dancers, Hollywood stars, Stalinist worker and all the venomous flowers and mischievous fairies in the world of mythology. From Moscow to Los Angeles via Vienna and Berlin, his public shows abroad have attracted crowds worthy of a rock concert. The show on March 16, 1995 organised to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of the house at the Cirque d’Hiver in Paris was a real super production.
COSTUME DESIGNIn 1985, he created the magical animal costumes of the children’s musical, Emilie Jolie. Thierry MUGLER’s baroque and chimerical costumes also dressed the Shakespearean monsters of the Comédie Française production of Macbeth.
PHOTOGRAPHER
In 1978 he started to do his first advertising campaigns as a photographer. The story has it that Helmut Newton suggested that he should do his own photos : Newton was working on a Thierry Mugler campaign and was irritated by the detailed advice of the designer ; He stopped and handed over his camera saying « since you know so well what you want, do it yourself ». In 1998 he published a superb book of his photographs entitled « Thierry MUGLER Photographer » (Editions du Regard) using images from his advertising campaigns but also fashion reports for international magazines. His passion for directing and producing pictures found its reward there. Since 1978 he quenches his thirst for travel and adventure by embarking upon journeys that take him to the opposite ends of the Earth. Setting out with a half-ton of clothing and a huge team, he combs places such as Sahara, China, Japan, Greenland, United States, Russia, Africa and the Middle East : his trials and tribulations around the globe feed his creativity and provide many ideas that the public sees a season later on the catwalk in Paris (Russian winter, African summer etc ...). His photos have been exhibited all over the world (Australia, Germany, Mexico etc ...). The pictures he creates often represents minuscule characters bravely perched on the summit of an extravagant building or juxtaposed on a gigantic landscape. « For me, picture must be created, worked until it is perfect. I am very rarely satisfied », he adds. FILM, VIDEO, TELEVISION ...In 1987 he made a short movie co-produced by TF1 calls « l’Antimentale ». It was a wordless fable of a love affair between a beautiful and rich society lady and a jewellery burglar. In 1990 he made his first commercial for Gauloises Aventures : a long line of characters dressed in white marching over the dunes of the Hoggar desert that he knows so well. In 1992 he was the artistic director and producer for the musical video clip « Too Funky » (by singer Georges Michael). In November 1995, he was asked by the American VH1 channel to design the sets and stages of the first « VH1 Fashion and Music Awards ». He created and directed the live TV opening sequence fashion show inspired by his own show at the Cirque d’Hiver in Paris. He hopes to direct a feature film one day : « The story of a woman who lives on a roof ». « Life is so strange on the top of mountains or on the roof of buildings. It is so poetic. You can feel the immensity of statues or the elements. » This woman will be haunted by passion, violence but also « controlled » by a defined, clear-cut and graphic garment. Eternal and slender, because she is corporal and anatomical.
THE KEYS MOMENTS FOR THE HOUSE OF THIERRY MUGLER
First boutique in Paris at 10, Place des Victoires – PARIS 2.
1983/1986 Opening of the first exclusive boutiques abroad : Brussels, Geneva.
The company moved to new premises at 130, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré – PARIS 8 -.
Eyewear license with the AUROR company in France.
First Haute Couture collection presented at the Hotel Ritz in July 1992 : a memorable fashion show, the perfect illustration of the alchemy of the designer’s talent and the know-how of his workshops.
New factory at Saint-Barthélémy – ANGERS. The THIERRY MUGLER factory established 10 years back in Anjou was extended and renovated. A futuristic architecture, 2300 m² of workshops which produce his upmarket ready-to-wear range. Compounding traditional know-how with the precision of high tech production techniques, Thierry MUGLER develops the industrial craftsmanship of the future. New boutiques selling Men’s lines only at 8, Place des Victoires, next door to the boutique presenting the women’s lines.
Development of accessories with leather goods and jewellery. Thierry MUGLER leather goods reflect the Couture style of the House : the collection is evolutive some handbags are the permanent core of the range, others are replaced by seasonal new products linked to the Couture collections. Thierry MUGLER Jewellery, costume jewellery that is present throughout the couture shows, was given its own range for the first time. 1995/1996 Acceleration of exclusive boutique openings world-wide : Hamburg, Hong-Kong, Bangkok, Istanbul, Strasbourg, Toulouse, London, Djakarta and a third Parisian boutique at 45, rue du Bac – PARIS – 7. For the first time, this 350 m² store presents all lines and accessories designed by Thierry MUGLER under the same roof. Thierry MUGLER designed the corner and store architecture himself a characteristic design with light, futuristic lines presenting all the label’s collections in a sky blue and black atmosphere. 1996 Launch of the first men’s fragrance, « A *MEN » in Europe ; marketed as « ANGEL Men » in the USA, Canada and Middle East Countries.
Launch of « MTM : MUGLER Trade Mark » a second line of sportswear and leisure clothes for women, « technical » in its design and materials.
The French Couture Syndicate officially invites Thierry MUGLER to present a Couture collection during the Haute Couture collections calendar.
1997 Couture shows: Thierry MUGLER presented his Couture collections, bringing together spectacular couture and luxury ready-to-wear models, during the Haute Couture weeks.
Invited to sit on the Comité Colbert, Thierry MUGLER joined the top 75 French companies sharing the same passion for excellence, creativity and luxury in product production.
The crossed acquisitions in 1990 of Thierry MUGLER in its Parfums and CLARINS in the Couture house were designed to prepare a merger between the two companies. After seven years’ fruitful partnership, confirmed by the success of the fragrances, this objective was achieved , the CLARINS Group acquired a large majority stake in Thierry MUGLER Couture.
Publishing a new book : « Fashion Fetish Fantasy » (General Publishing Group USA) offering a complete compendium of Thierry MUGLER’s own fashion photography and images from of the world’s best photographers featuring MUGLER creations. Farouk CHEKOUFI  ALEXANDER MCQUEENAlexander McQueen was born in London on March 17th 1969, the youngest of six children.  ZUHAIR MURAD SUBLIME ARTWORKFIRST STUDIED FASHION DESIGN IN BEIRUT & THEN WENT TO PARIS WHERE HE GOT HIS DEGREE FROM THE CHAMBRE SYNDICALE – PARIS, IN 1993. By Farouk CHEKOUFI  Romano Ricci, “THE CITIZEN KING” of perfumes.A young creator with a prestigious name, Romano Ricci had the chance to be initiated at a young age into the secrets of perfumery by his grandfather  RAMDANE TOUHAMI King of Creation1992: Ramdane is still at college when he creates the “Teuchiland” Tee-shirt, using the Timberland logotype.  A BEAUTY PROGRAMME INSPIRED BY THE VERY SPECIAL PERSONALITY OF LISA SIMONThe name written in beautiful crimson letters crowned by a flower  John Allan, an empathetic and visionary creator.Pioneer of the « grooming attitude » for the American man.  The dynamic world of PACO RABANNEOn the 18th February 1934, in San Sebastian, a town in the Spanish Basque region, a child was born who was to lead a highly eventful life.  With LOVE FROM OTAZUAlways straight from the heart Rodrigo Otazu designs by pure instinct and straight from the heart.  Donatella Versace So coutureBlond hair, tanned complexion, sublime evening dresses, passionate and rich. Everything here seems perfect. But more than just an icon, Donatella Versace remains a very mysterious and complex woman.  CHRISTA……La NEO Parisienne……After being established in Cape Town for some time, LA COMTESSE settled in Paris...  NATHALIE COLIN ROBLIQUE « Couture cristalline »“I feel that it is particularly important that the trademark’s versatility gives different groups of consumers an opportunity... " |
