PACO RABANNE
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The dynamic world of PACO RABANNEOn the 18th February 1934, in San Sebastian, a town in the Spanish Basque region, a child was born who was to lead a highly eventful life. His chilhood, marked by the Spanish Civil War, was spent between a deeply religious grandmother, possessor by tradition of nature's secrets and responsive to the occult sciences, a mother, who was an important figure in the Spanish socialist party and a resolute atheist, and a father, who died prematurely for not having renounced his republican believes. The war and this family environment gave the young Paco Rabanne the qualities which were to form his personality and help him along his journey through life : tolerance, a conviction that there are many facets to reality, generosity, a care for others, and an openness to the world. As a refugee in France from the age of five, Paco Rabanne pursued a branch of studies which was to lead him, in 1952, to the Ecole Nationale des Beaux-Arts, where he opted for architecture. His teachers advised him to gain a good knowledge of his times if he was to become a good architect, and, to this end, to visit numerous museums, to watch films and plays, not to forget music, and to meet artists and intellectuals. Paco Rabanne listened, learnt, and laid a cultural foundation for himself. Drawn by what he refers to as the "double look", this look which he fashioned, Paco Rabanne has always been interested in objects and their reason for being. At an early stage, in order to finance his architectural studies, he produced fashion accessories; this was a milieu with which he was familiar, since, in Spain, his mother was chief assistant at Balenciaga. He designed and manufactured handbags, jewellery and belts for fashion designers, and he met Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, Jacques Griffe, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, to name but a few. At the same time, in the early '60s, the arts underwent a tremendous upheaval. "Optical Art" and "Cinetic Art" came into vogue. Architects moved their attention away from slone in favour of metal; at the hand of Martial Raysse; painting focused its attention on neon; Sotto's wire sculptures were greeted with acclaim; Quassar's plastic furniture became fashionable. These revolutions, and with fashion designers drawing their inspiration through a critical and meticulous sense of observation, infused Paco Rabanne with a desire to create an Haute Couture collection. Thus, in February 1966, Paco Rabanne presented "twelve experimental dresses which could be produced in contemporary materials", i.e. in plastic and metal, assembled together using a pair of pliers and a blowlamp in place of needles and scissors. In a spirit inherited from Dada, Paco Rabanne wanted to create a fashion which broke with tradition, one which he displayed using black models who, for the first time, danced on the podium, to the beat of Pierre Boulez's "Marteau sans Maître". This spectacular collection caused a scandal, though it also gained recognition for a new fashion designer in Paris. "I am an architect by training, so I only like pure lines". Paco Rabanne is constantly searching for new materials: plastic for the first collection ; then leather in winter 1966; metal in 1967, for which he became the watchword; and, finally, a mixture of fabric and metal. His heavy rigid steel sheets, cut and assembled, from the early creative years developed rapidly into a flexible form: the coat of mail and the light, airy, wire woven lace of today. In 1966, Paco Rabanne created paper dresses, for day and evening wear, which were sold in small bags, marking the birth of disposable clothing. Furthermore, he was also the innovator of the first "moulded" clothing, in 1967; the knitted fur, in 1968; and the aluminium jersey, in the same year. He used laser disks for his 1988 dresses. The structure and shape do not change dramatically, but instead they adapt themselves to changes in the lives of women: "the shapes change when the hand movements of the times change. Today, women have to constantly change identity and therefore clothing. During the day, in the metro, they wear clothes for a faster life style. In the evening, in their private lives, their clothes are more feminine and brighter". With regard to colours, they are taking on increasing importance with the start of the '90s. Paco Rabanne plays with light and transparency, using more crystalline and reflective materials; hence his use of mirrors, which correspond to a desire for glistening light on the body. With the Spanish group Puig as his partner, Paco Rabanne very soon launched himself into another adventure: the world of perfume. In 1969, he caused a sensation with his first: "Calandre", which was designed for women leading active lives. Using the name of a car, a bottle drawing inspiration from New York architecture, with a metal rim, and causing a revolution in extracts, since it came at a time when lemon feature among all ingredients, Paco Rabanne choose a background hint of cypress. This innovative mixture, with a touch of woodland tree tops and hearts in bloom, was an immediate and undeniable success. Then there appeared "Paco Rabanne pour Homme" and his toiletries lines in 1973, "Métal" in 1979, "La Nuit" in 1985, "Sport" and its toiletries variations in 1986, and "Ténéré" in 1988. In 1993, "XS" (Excess pour homme) was launched : a fragrance of the '90s, for a Man at once desirable, bold and sensuous. This new fragrance is already ranking among the best-sellers in men's toiletries. New women's fragrances, with a character as distinctive as the fashion of the couturier, are being prepared for the near future. Furthermore, in the field of cosmetics, Paco Rabanne asserted his innovator spirit when, in 1984, he launched the first complete skin care line designed specially for men, under the name of "Soin pour Homme". Women, as imagined by Paco Rabanne, cannot live alone. Consequently, in the early '80s, the fashion designer created a ready-to-wear collection for men; this is continuously supplemented today with an assorted accessories line (ties, shirts, belts, etc.) thereby providing all aspects of clothing for men. In 1981, these men and women could then decorate their homes with Paco Rabanne furniture, tableware and household linen : lines with exacting designs and with a pure style. However, there were still no ready-to-wear clothes for women, and this niche was filled in the summer of '90. This whole range of products, as well as the new fine leather goods line created in 1991, is available in the shop which was opened in 1990, situated on the Rive Gauche in Paris, at 7, rue du Cherche Midi. With 170 licences and the perfumes; Paco Rabanne is established on the five continents, Asia, and namely Japan and South Korea being much favoured countries. Since his beginnings in fashion design, Paco Rabanne has continued to surprise, seduce and glean honours: the dress exhibition at the Pavillon Français of the "International Exhibition" in Montreal; a fashion show at the "International Conference of American Architects" in 1966; the "Tibère d'Or" in Capri in 1967; the "Milan Triennal", and the "Body Covering Exhibition" at the Museum of Contemporary Crafts in New York, where he represented France in 1968; the "Beauty Products Industry" prize for "Calandre" in 1969; the "Osaka Fair" in 1970; an Oscar from "The Fragrance Foundation Recognition Award" for the extract and the packaging of "Paco Rabanne pour Homme" in 1974; the "L'Aiguille d'Or", for his Haute Couture collection in 1977, and the "Hommage de la Mode" prize were awarded on the occasion of the first International Fashion Festival in 1985; and in 1990, he received the "Dé d'Or", the highest distinction in Haute Couture. In 1992, Paco Rabanne was bestowed the special honour to introduce a retrospect show of his creations before the King and Queen of Spain and selected VIP's, on occasion of the Universal Exhibition which took place in Seville. For a great number of years, his creations have been represented in the major museums of the world (New York, Tokyo, Paris, etc.). In recognition of his talent and for his active contribution to numerous humanitarian projects, Paco Rabanne was awarded the highest honorary distinction in Spain ("Officer of the Order of Isabelle the Catholic", in 1989) and in France, in the same year, that of "Chevalier of the Legion of Honour". Appreciated as a speaker for his witty eloquence, as well as for his advice, out of his concern to train young stylists, Paco Rabanne participates in numerous international public and professional events. With his passion for culture, Paco Rabanne has always invested in this field; he has opened cultural centres, published a magazine, provided costumes for the actors in the films "Casino Royal", "Barbarella", "The Adventurers" etc. and for stars (Ursula Andress, Jane Fonda, Françoise Hardy, Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn,Dee Dee Bridgewater, Sylvie Vartan, Patricia Kaas, Latoya Jackson, etc.) founded a production company, introduced France to African and West Indian music, etc. His first book "Trajectory" appeared in 1991 (published by Michel Lafon and press pocket under "J'ai lu"); it is a work in which he asserts his deepest convictions with enthusiasm and sincerity. This first triumphant best seller (more than 500 000 copies sold), was soon to be followed by a second one (both books were translated into five languages) : "The end of Times" in which he encourages mankind to introspection, moral elevation and care for others. In 1994, Paco Rabanne wrote a sequel to his two precedent books with "Le Temps Présent : Le chemin des grands initiés", a personal guide to face our changing age with serenity and lucidity. The huge audience of his trilogy gave Paco Rabanne the stature of a master thinker and leg Michel Lafon to create a collection "Toute la sagesse du monde" based on interviews with Paco Rabanne and the main spiritual authorities of the planet. The first volume of this collection, devoted to Bokar Rimpoché, Tibetan Buddhist master, appeared on the 18th October 1995, and is entitled "Les lumières du bouddhisme". To crown the work of the couturier Paco Rabanne, the Fashion Museum of Marseille, devoted a superb retrospective to him, directed by Pierre Molinaroli. Lydia Kamitsis, the scientific curator of the exhibition, put the accent on reworked or revisited materials, which she associated with the "ready-made" work of Marcel Duchamp. Thanks to the success met by the exhibition, which started on the 9th June 1995, its closing date was extended to the 1st October. Paco Rabanne chose the exceptional date of the 29th of February 1996 to launch into orbit his new planet called PACO. A unisex perfume only available in a 100 ml version, which has an associated range of casual clothes and accessories. Simultaneously to the opening of the new PACO boutique at 7 rue du Cherche-midi, Paris, these new luxury goods, which are accessible to all, had a world-wide launching throughout 25 countries. In “ The Indian Lesson ”, the second volume of the collection “ All the wisdom of the world ” which appeared in June 1996, Wallace Black Elk, the last medicine man of the Sioux tribe, unveils his ancestral knowledge of the protective qualities of crystals, the therapeutic use of sound and the power of the four elements. He goes even further, in initialising us to premonitions and the art of receiving revelating visions. Curator and scientific expert at the “ Musée de la Mode et du Textile ”(Fashion and Textile Museum), Lydia Kamitsis is the author of the book dedicated to the work of the couturier Paco Rabanne “ A feeling for research ”. In this book which was published by Editions Michel Lafon in November 1996, she highlights his unique approach to fashion. A rigorous two part analysis : “ The Art of Matter ” deals with the use of the traditional technique of couture. After “ The Light of Buddhism ” and “ The Indian Lesson ”, “ The Power of the Celts ”, published in December 1996, used the eternal figure of the druid to reveal a vision of the world still surviving in Brittany and the British Isles. On the 15th February 1997 Paco Rabanne opened a new boutique in Saint Germain des Près, at 83 rue des Saints Pères, exclusively devoted to the women’s ready to wear and accessories collections (bags, jewellery and scarves). On Sunday 16th March 1997, M. Paco Rabanne inaugurated “the Montana Fashion Bar ”, situated at 28 rue Saint Benoît, very near the Café de Flore . In taking this initiative he wanted to create a “ rendez-vous ” for the fashion pack. Paco Rabanne knows that one needs to remain constantly in step with the times. His keen gaze never leaves the street as he pounds the pavements of the world’s capitals, drawing energy from the people he passes. Thus, in 1998, he created PACO ENERGY, a perfume that stimulates body and heart, a perfume mingling woody and citrus essences with sharp, lively citrus fruit notes. For Paco Rabanne, 1999 has been a decisive year. First, there was a book, “Fire from Heaven” (Le Feu du ciel), published by Michel Lafon, expressing his vision of our world, its disasters first of all, then its capacity to reconstruct itself. A pessimistic vision for some, but in his view, a vision that opens up possibilities for humanity. Now there is a perfume, ULTRAVIOLET; his spirit ever aware, Paco Rabanne now sees women taking charge of their own destiny. Body and spirit, finally pacified, now express themselves in ULTRAVIOLET, a ray of spirituality and the colour of femininity. Resolutely new in its fragrance, ULTRAVIOLET plays on the congeniality of opposites, and their combativeness as well: the fresh chilli pepper subtly gives way to the velvety Osmanthus from Japan (Kinmokusei), backed by the sensuality of eternal amber, all this enclosed in a purple sphere you press to receive its wafts of fragrance. A new gesture, a new behaviour pattern. Light, strength, sensuality and intelligence: the four pillars of ULTRAVIOLET, the olfactory portrait of the Third Millennium woman. Finally, 1999 was also a year of farewell to Haute Couture. Fashion Design as he conceived it, an idea of women to which he gave birth: free, captivating and never an object; now in full possession of herself, she will successfully express her independence in matters of dress. A farewell that will leave him free, like the new millennium, to set out on fresh adventures… WWW.PACORABANNE.COM
 ALEXANDER MCQUEENAlexander McQueen was born in London on March 17th 1969, the youngest of six children.  ZUHAIR MURAD SUBLIME ARTWORKFIRST STUDIED FASHION DESIGN IN BEIRUT & THEN WENT TO PARIS WHERE HE GOT HIS DEGREE FROM THE CHAMBRE SYNDICALE – PARIS, IN 1993. By Farouk CHEKOUFI  Romano Ricci, “THE CITIZEN KING” of perfumes.A young creator with a prestigious name, Romano Ricci had the chance to be initiated at a young age into the secrets of perfumery by his grandfather  RAMDANE TOUHAMI King of Creation1992: Ramdane is still at college when he creates the “Teuchiland” Tee-shirt, using the Timberland logotype.  A BEAUTY PROGRAMME INSPIRED BY THE VERY SPECIAL PERSONALITY OF LISA SIMONThe name written in beautiful crimson letters crowned by a flower  John Allan, an empathetic and visionary creator.Pioneer of the « grooming attitude » for the American man.  With LOVE FROM OTAZUAlways straight from the heart Rodrigo Otazu designs by pure instinct and straight from the heart.  Donatella Versace So coutureBlond hair, tanned complexion, sublime evening dresses, passionate and rich. Everything here seems perfect. But more than just an icon, Donatella Versace remains a very mysterious and complex woman.  CHRISTA……La NEO Parisienne……After being established in Cape Town for some time, LA COMTESSE settled in Paris...  NATHALIE COLIN ROBLIQUE « Couture cristalline »“I feel that it is particularly important that the trademark’s versatility gives different groups of consumers an opportunity... " |
